This is done via the secondary clutch. This procedure will apply to Phazer, Srv, SS440, Enticers, and just about the rest. Any Yamaha sled with the helix on the backside of the clutch.
There are special tools for this, but most can be done with an extra set of hands. I prefer tools as the helix is spring loaded. Proceed at your own risk. In addition to hands or compression tools, you will need a quality set of snap ring pliers.
Lay the clutch face down(the side where the bolt would go). Note which hole the spring tab is in or mark it for future reference. With some big hands and arms, push the helix down and remove the snap ring. Account for the washer under the clip. With any luck the helix wont be stuck to the splined shaft.
Once you have the clip removed, slowly release downward pressure and let the helix raise up of the shaft. It will rotate a bit as it comes up and almost off. At this point, the other end of the spring's tab will still be in the movable sheave(hopefully), mark or note its location for future reference.
Once the helix is off, the moveable sheave should slide off the shaft. If your lucky, the shim washers are still between the sheaves, if not, you will need 2 of oem Yam part # 90201-345G2-00. Take the sheave you just removed and slide it back on the shaft. Now, take your belt and drape it over the clutch just like it would ride if on the sled. If the belt is too high, add a shim, too low, take a shim out. Once your happy with the dry fit, your ready for the dubious task of re-assembly. Prior to putting things back together, you should inspect the plastic bushings along with the sheave bushing for damage or wear. Now, what to do with those potential left over washer(s) if they arent used. I safely store them under the c-clip.
Re-set your spring tab in its original hole on the moveable sheave, line up the helix on the splines with the other end of the spring's tab in the helix original hole, and slide it down the splines slightly. Now, rotate the movable sheave about 1/3 turn counter clockwise and then compress the spring via the helix and reinstall the washer and clip, making sure the helix clears the buttons. If all went well, your good to go. Not enough twist, your sled will overshift, too much and it will overrev.
There are several options for tuning your secondary. You have choices of A,B, and C, along with 1,2,3 and 4 between the helix and the sheave. Each letter/number combo represents a different clocking angle and is spring specific. Different colored spring allow different angles.
Hopes this helps. Tools are better than hands, and you will know if you messed up, been there, done that. Just practice a few times and it will become easier.
Setting Belt Deflection On Pre-96(ish)Yamahas
