So a friend of mine who doesn't know much about snowmobiles bought a 2007? (I think) 900 RMK in not running condition. After it sat a few years in his driveway he decided to get it going. That's where I got in involved. I have a 97 skandic 500 fan, a 2004 skandic 550 fan and a 2003 yamaha rx-1 mountain. I have decent wrenching experience and extensive riding experience.
To start with the machine was not running and I offered to clean the carbs. On looking at it I realized it was fuel injected so I skipped that.
I noticed that the belt tool and a hardware bolt were installed in the secondary clutch opening it about half way. The belt itself was in good condition but the clutches were smeared with black burnt rubber. I started there because that is like trying to let a clutch out in 4th gear. After the clutch sheaves were cleaned (120 grit and acetone) and the secondary was allowed to close the belt rode up to the top and is sitting about 1/16 proud of the top of the secondary. I have learned that there should be a deflection adjustment screw and jam nut in the secondary. I assume somebody lost it and replaced it with the bolt but I still don't understand why anyone would ride it with the clutch tool in?
There entire engine bay was soaked in oil including unburned oil in the leaky exhaust. We installed the exhaust correctly with some extra springs I had in my junk spring bin. The fuel tank smelled ok so we put off a flush and drain. Compression was 120 and 90 but my gauge reads low. (for example my skandic which is a strong runner shows 70/70). I considered that the imbalance might be a problem but it could also be oil build up in one cyl. as well.
We pulled the rope and it fired but ran poorly. The oil and temp warning lights flickered on the dash (melted harness in three places and corroded butt connectors. As soon as any throttle was applied it stalled out and back fired loudly.
Spark testing revealed a dead spark plug. These were replaced and gapped to spec. Compression now reading 90 and 90 (I assume excess oil was burned out.) As short test ride showed the clutches were working in forward with no burning rubber or slipping apparent. I don't know the machine but it felt sluggish to me. I was able to get up to maybe 70 km/hr in the small orchard across the street. My rx1 would have hit 90-100 km across the same orchard.
Next we removed the tank and drained the fuel. All of the hose inside the tank was rotten so we replaced that and re-installed. l also took the wiring looms apart and cut out and replaced all of the melted wires and Butt Connectors. I soldered and used quality heat shrink. Now all the warning lights are out and the machine is running smoothly but the reverse only goes a few feet before it slips and does not work.
The engine slows stops and runs backwards as expected but as soon as the machine starts to back up the secondary opens prematurely and the belt slides down inside the the secondary. If I engage forward the engine slows stops and goes forward and the belt climbs back up and the machine runs normally.
The secondary clutch is factory painted red and is a Team Secondary. I have never taken one apart but I have done the seocndary on both my skandics including the 550 which has RER. I am thinking maybe somebody put a secondary without PERC on this machine. Can anyone who is smart with Team clutches advise??
We are hoping to go for a proper shake down ride this weekend. I don't think we will damage anything if we don't use reverse.
Thank You.
To start with the machine was not running and I offered to clean the carbs. On looking at it I realized it was fuel injected so I skipped that.
I noticed that the belt tool and a hardware bolt were installed in the secondary clutch opening it about half way. The belt itself was in good condition but the clutches were smeared with black burnt rubber. I started there because that is like trying to let a clutch out in 4th gear. After the clutch sheaves were cleaned (120 grit and acetone) and the secondary was allowed to close the belt rode up to the top and is sitting about 1/16 proud of the top of the secondary. I have learned that there should be a deflection adjustment screw and jam nut in the secondary. I assume somebody lost it and replaced it with the bolt but I still don't understand why anyone would ride it with the clutch tool in?
There entire engine bay was soaked in oil including unburned oil in the leaky exhaust. We installed the exhaust correctly with some extra springs I had in my junk spring bin. The fuel tank smelled ok so we put off a flush and drain. Compression was 120 and 90 but my gauge reads low. (for example my skandic which is a strong runner shows 70/70). I considered that the imbalance might be a problem but it could also be oil build up in one cyl. as well.
We pulled the rope and it fired but ran poorly. The oil and temp warning lights flickered on the dash (melted harness in three places and corroded butt connectors. As soon as any throttle was applied it stalled out and back fired loudly.
Spark testing revealed a dead spark plug. These were replaced and gapped to spec. Compression now reading 90 and 90 (I assume excess oil was burned out.) As short test ride showed the clutches were working in forward with no burning rubber or slipping apparent. I don't know the machine but it felt sluggish to me. I was able to get up to maybe 70 km/hr in the small orchard across the street. My rx1 would have hit 90-100 km across the same orchard.
Next we removed the tank and drained the fuel. All of the hose inside the tank was rotten so we replaced that and re-installed. l also took the wiring looms apart and cut out and replaced all of the melted wires and Butt Connectors. I soldered and used quality heat shrink. Now all the warning lights are out and the machine is running smoothly but the reverse only goes a few feet before it slips and does not work.
The engine slows stops and runs backwards as expected but as soon as the machine starts to back up the secondary opens prematurely and the belt slides down inside the the secondary. If I engage forward the engine slows stops and goes forward and the belt climbs back up and the machine runs normally.
The secondary clutch is factory painted red and is a Team Secondary. I have never taken one apart but I have done the seocndary on both my skandics including the 550 which has RER. I am thinking maybe somebody put a secondary without PERC on this machine. Can anyone who is smart with Team clutches advise??
We are hoping to go for a proper shake down ride this weekend. I don't think we will damage anything if we don't use reverse.
Thank You.
secondary clutch slipping in reverse
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