starting to think snow

Hello, I'm Ed (aka DirtNap) I got into sledding last winter and really enjoy it. I bought a 2002 Ski-doo MXZ700 Salt Lake. It had only 760 miles. Some Friends are into off trail stuff and it looks like fun too. So I bought an 04 MXZ600HO SDI 136" that needs work.

starting to think snow

1997 Polaris Indy having problems

Hello everyone, I have a 97 Polaris Indy 500 and its having issues running.after I drive it for a short period of time it will start losing power and shortly after it won't move at all and I could hold the throtle wide open and It will only rev up to 5000 rpms and the track won't move and it wants to stall out. Could any one tell what that could be? Could it be a fuel/carb problem? Thanks

1997 Polaris Indy having problems

Melted wire repair

What have you guys used to fix melted wires under the hood? I have a few on each sled that got a little close to the expansion chamber and melted a bit.

Of course, I'll be rerouting and installing some extra wire guides once the repairs are done.

Melted wire repair

My 99 Jag 340

I think I finally solved some mysteries on this machine.

Last summer I did a full top end, including new jugs on it. Ran great for about 250-300 miles and then went back to what it was doing before. After it gets hot, it is really hard to start and when I checked compression (while hot) I had 90 in both cylinders.

Well, I believe that mystery was related to the weak fuel pump. I put new rings on the pistons and after putting it all together and letting it run, while idling it just died. I notice the fuel line is empty. So I pressurize the tank to force fuel back into the carb and then started it again. Watched and as long as it was on high idle or faster, it could pull fuel through. As soon as it dropped to normal idle, the fuel line would empty out. I'm guessed the fuel pump was weak and maybe running the whole thing to lean.

I put a new rebuild kit into the fuel pump and I could instantly see a difference. Fuel pumped much faster into the carb.


The other mystery was every time you turned a hard right, the thing wanted to die. Obviously electrical, but I could not figure it out. All the wires were good and double insulated around the steering column. Nothing getting pulled that I could see. Then I figured it out, when the bars were turned to the right, it was pushing connectors hard against the key switch, causing something to short out. I just re-routed the wires and pushed the connectors out of the way.

My 99 Jag 340

Hoods

Can i put a 96 mach 1 hood on my 92 mach 1

Hoods

1977 GS340 Spark Issue

hi everyone, so i just brought my dads old 1977 gs340 home after sitting for 15-20 years. he rebuilt the motor before putting away due to someone running the oil injector reserve dry (pro tip: dont leave your keys in your sled) so ive encountered a very weird problem i am unable to find a solution for. so there are two coil packs with the plug leads, orange and white, one for each cyl. when hooked up normally only the orange sides plug will spark, when switching the wire that supplies the pack with power, the white one will fire. i cant for the life of me get both of them to. ive checked continuity in the whole wire harness and its all good. so i have it stripped to the magneto and am at a loss. anyone?

thanks so much

1977 GS340 Spark Issue

Clutch only engages at high RPM

Thanks to the suggestions here in my fuel system post, the engine of my bargain 2007 Edge LX now starts right up.

There is, however, a problem with the driving clutch. Full disclosure: I removed it to replace the starter. My holding tool consisted of a pry bar stuck through the spider area and the removal tool was a 3/4 UNF bolt with a couple of 3/8 ratchet extensions inserted into the hole. It worked a treat - a couple of turns to snug it up and a light tap with a brass hammer and it popped right off.

Here's the problem, and please remember that this sled sat outside (covered) unused for at least 4 years. The clutch only engages at very high RPM. The sled does not have a tachometer, but it seems like it is probably well north of 6000 RPM. The engine noise is deafening. I'm doing this with the back end of the sled held off the ground with an engine crane. The mating surfaces on the clutch and engine were spotless and I torqued the retention bolt to the specified 50 ft-lbs.

It's entirely possible that I may have damaged the clutch upon removal, but I didn't have to use any extraordinary force, so I kind of doubt that; plus I don't see any damage. Based upon the fact that the prior owner is well into his 60s and that the damn thing is only 340cc, I'm assuming no one altered the clutch because, if they did, why?

The sheaves need some cleaning, but overall my inclination is to just take the clutch to the local Polaris deal and have them rebuild it. Before I do that, I was wondering if the symptom I've described sounds like a "normal" failure or if I've perhaps overlooked something obvious?

Al

Clutch only engages at high RPM