Enticer steering and suspension

samedi 3 février 2018

So inherited my Dad's old 1978 Yamaha Enticer 340, I finally have it running well, adjusted the brakes, cleaned the carb, got the choke working, changed chaincase oil, replaced the belt, etc. I realize that in 1978 snowmobile suspension and steering were still pretty primitive, but I am wondering if there are any simple fixes or fairly inexpensive upgrades for this machine? I really don't want to spend much on it since it's value is mainly sentimental, but the steering is especially atrocious.

I did find recently that one of the steering arms was bent, so I bent that back as straight as I could and now it does turn better.


Enticer steering and suspension

2000 Grand Touring 600

vendredi 2 février 2018

Just picked a 2000 Grand Touring 600, has 4600kms on it. While it runs well,can’t seem to get more than 90km/h out of it. Any ideas? I’m a noob when it comes to snowmobiles.


2000 Grand Touring 600

Zoan optimus helmet vs ls2 or g64s

Hey guys, been searchin so fig to ask. I bought a cheap zoan for wife. Been using it myself few trips out, it does ok. I wear glasses and if anything my glasses fog before anything else. Looked at buying cat crap and etc. Traveling with lens cracked open works in the mild weather.

I want a helmet for me. Looking at the gmax g64s as i dont like the breath guard on the zoan. Otherwise the zoan seems great. One deal with the gmax is the d ring chin strap, the ls2 and zoan have quick release.

My biggest thing is if i go heated shield on zoan its not to bad price wise, 80 more on gmax and idk if shield is needed. Anyone use the ls2? It has a breath guard similar to the gmax plus quick release
Opinions? Thanks guys


Zoan optimus helmet vs ls2 or g64s

The two-week weekend project

So, we had great snow for a couple weeks at the end of last year, but that dried up (at least down here in the foothills), so I decided to complete the track/skid swap and upgrade a few parts while I was at it. I was planning on doing it last fall, but ended up working into December to get my house closed in, and then the fluffy snow was too good to ignore. As it turns out, I'm overdue to dig in and replace some parts and pieces: the speedo died in Dec, the driveshaft didn't seem too loose, but after getting it apart the bearing was definitely in full failure mode (the one on the 800 I'm parting is the same way).

Anyway, the things I'm doing / have done are:
Track and skid swap to a home ported and windowed 144 (from the 800).
Shock swap to RydeFX clickers.
Swap to SLP PowderPro skis I got used
Replace all drive bearings (except the clutch side jack-shaft bearing – feels like new and it's easy to monitor anyway).
Replace bent lower radius arms and shift to narrower ski stance.
Coolant flush and brake fluid service.
Upgrade to SLP adjustable clutch weights – my tach reads a few hundred high, but I've seen over 8500! Should be 8000 +/- 200
Full cleanout and new grease for all pivot points –*decided to switch to Mobil aviation grease
Replacing some bushings and grommets and such.

Since I had the track out, I decided to experiment with some porting and open the closed windows. I just went with two rows of 1-1/4 holes alternating sides, the theory being that if I keep them each behind a lug I'll maximize snow cleanout and minimize floatation loss. Everything seems to take longer than expected with these things, but the thing that's got me nearly beside myself is trying to adjust the tie rods for the narrower front. I got one side to adjust in where it needed to be, but the other got to the point where it was impossible to turn. I tried to go back out, thinking maybe I could get it apart and clean up the threads, but then it just snapped the rod end. No problem, I'll just use the ones off the parts sled. The inner rod end comes right apart; the outer one: jammed up just as bad as the one that broke.

I really hate aluminum sometimes. With steel, heat and oil will always get it loose eventually, but seems like once aluminum gets sticky, there's no clean way out. I managed to get one of the broken pieces out by heating the tie rod. Thing is, it basically destroyed the threads in the process. Makes me wonder if I should just buy a new set and be done with it. As it stands, I've got one more shot with the parts sled, although I might be able to improvise if I can get a clean outer rod end. You can bet it'll be slathered with anti-seize before it goes back together; I always make it a point to use anti-seize on threads into aluminum, and I just wish manufacturers would be as generous!

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The two-week weekend project

New 6000 lumen Install vs Stock

jeudi 1 février 2018



New 6000 lumen Install vs Stock

No power when in gear. Can it be a belt?

I got Aktiv Panther Lång '85 recently and it does have rather annoying problem - when I press gas, it has almost no power when in gear, it doesn't go to high RPM. It is better when cold, after some time driving it can't get uphill. I suspect the belt. Can it be something else?

It goes like this - deeper snow or uphill - "jumps" forward few cm/inches, RPM goes down, RPM goes up a little, moves forward few cm. All while I hold the gas steadily.

When I am in neutral, RPM goes up normally.


No power when in gear. Can it be a belt?

First start in 7 years

I recently acquired a couple older late 80's and early 90's oil injected snowmobiles. Neither of them has been started for 7-8 years. My question is, should I put some 2 cycle oil or something similar down the spark plug holes before I try to start them for the first time? They both ran but were put away, just sat in a shed all those years.
Carbs have all been torn down and cleaned well with fresh gas..


First start in 7 years
 

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